Long socks with cables Novita 7 Veljestä
The long woollen socks featuring strong heel, knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä.
Designer
Minna Metsänen
Size(s)
38/39
Finished dimensions
''
Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä (021) Petrol 250 g
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles: Novita 3½ mm or the size needed to obtain correct gauge.
Finished dimensions
''
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing:
*k2, p2*
Cast on 80 sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles: 26, 14, 14, and 26 sts. If you need your socks to fit wider calves, cast on 88 sts, with 4 sts more on the ribbing on both sides of the cable. The beginning of the round is placed between needles I and IV, in the middle of the back of the sock. Begin the ribbing and the cables from row 1 of both charts I and II. On chart I, begin from the point marked with an arrow and first knit 8 sts from the left side of the cable: *k2, p2* repeat from * to * 3 more times and k2. Work needles II and III in the cable pattern following chart II. On needle IV *k2, p2*, repeat from * to * for 3 more times, k2 and then work the 8 sts on the right end of chart I.
Continue working the sts in this order and work rows 2-12 of charts I and II.
On needles II and III continue following the cable pattern from row 13 of chart II. Work rows 14-20 and then repeat rows 1-20 for the rest of the sock.
On needles I and IV continue the 16 st cable pattern and work the rest of the sts in stockinette st. Work rows 13-19 of chart I, then repeat rows 8-19 for 7 times. Then work rows 8-11.
Note: When the leg measures approx. 15 cm, begin the decreases for the calf: work the 8 st cable pattern, k2tog and when 10 sts remain, work the skp decrease (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and then work the 8 st cable pattern. Work 7 rows without decreases, then repeat the decrease as before. Repeat the decreases in this manner every 4th round 10 more times. 56 sts on the needles, 14 on each needle. If you started with 88 sts, work the decreases every 4th row 16 times.
Continue working as established until the leg measures approx. 38 cm and you've just completed row 11 of chart I. Continue working needles II and III in the cable pattern and begin the increases for the heel between needles IV and I (see chart III). Continue working in the round.
1st increase round: You have worked through the end of needle IV. Using your left-hand needle, pick up the left leg of the stitch that is below the stitch you've just worked and knit it through the back loop. Next, pick up the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on needle I onto your left-hand needle and knit it through the back loop. The increased sts will form the gusset between needles I and IV. The gusset has 2 sts. Work 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. The beginning of the round is now on the right end of the gusset, so you will end the round on needle IV before the 1 knit st on the gusset.
2nd increase round: There is 1 knit stitch unworked on needle IV. Increase 1 st as before (below the purl st), knit the 2 gusset sts, increase 1 st as before (below the purl st). 4 gusset sts. Knit 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. End this round before the gusset.
Repeat the increases every 2nd round for 6 more times. As established, always work the increases on both sides of the middle gusset sts. On every other round knit the gusset sts. Completed, the gusset has 16 sts.
After the last increase round, work 1 complete round and then work through the next round until the end of needle III. Make a note on which round the cable pattern on the top of the sock will continue after the heel.
Begin the heel decreases. The decreases are worked flat and only on needles IV and I.
1st row: work through needle IV, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. On the beginning of needle I, k2, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
2nd row: slip 1 st, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
3rd row: slip 1, k6, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
4th row: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Continue working in the same way, knitting or purling the sts on either side of the 'opening' together and then working 1 more st before turning the work. Work the decreases on both ends until 1 unworked st remains. The last decrease was made on the wrong side of the work. Turn work and resume knitting in the round with all the sts.
Work the first round as follows: slip 1, knit the sts on needle IV. On needle I, k11, k2tog through the back loop. Continue working the cable pattern on needles II and III. On needle IV, k2tog, k11. The beginning of the round is again between needles IV and I. Needles I and IV now have 12 sts each and needles II and III 14 sts each = 52 sts.
Continue working the cable pattern on the top of the sock and work needles I and IV in stockinette stitch until the foot measures approx. 19 cm and you've just completed row 15 of chart II. Work the following two cable turns following rows 1-3 of chart IV. The cable on the middle is now completed, while the smaller cables on the sides will still continue. If you need the foot to be longer, you can continue knitting and begin the toe decreases later on. Make sure that the turns on the smaller cables on the sides will continue to follow the proper pattern.
Distribute the sts evenly, so that each needle has 13 sts. On needles II and III work the toe decreases according to chart IV, i.e. work rows 4-20.
Work the toe decreases on needles I and IV: Work through needle I until 3 sts remain: k2tog, p1. On needle IV, p1, skp, work to the end of the needle. On the next round purl the purl sts. Continue working the decreases every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Switch to working the decreases on each round. When 8 sts remain in total, break the yarn, pass it through the sts, pull tightly and weave the end securely.
Knit the other sock to match.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
''
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing:
*k2, p2*
Cast on 80 sts and distribute them onto four double-pointed needles: 26, 14, 14, and 26 sts. If you need your socks to fit wider calves, cast on 88 sts, with 4 sts more on the ribbing on both sides of the cable. The beginning of the round is placed between needles I and IV, in the middle of the back of the sock. Begin the ribbing and the cables from row 1 of both charts I and II. On chart I, begin from the point marked with an arrow and first knit 8 sts from the left side of the cable: *k2, p2* repeat from * to * 3 more times and k2. Work needles II and III in the cable pattern following chart II. On needle IV *k2, p2*, repeat from * to * for 3 more times, k2 and then work the 8 sts on the right end of chart I.
Continue working the sts in this order and work rows 2-12 of charts I and II.
On needles II and III continue following the cable pattern from row 13 of chart II. Work rows 14-20 and then repeat rows 1-20 for the rest of the sock.
On needles I and IV continue the 16 st cable pattern and work the rest of the sts in stockinette st. Work rows 13-19 of chart I, then repeat rows 8-19 for 7 times. Then work rows 8-11.
Note: When the leg measures approx. 15 cm, begin the decreases for the calf: work the 8 st cable pattern, k2tog and when 10 sts remain, work the skp decrease (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and then work the 8 st cable pattern. Work 7 rows without decreases, then repeat the decrease as before. Repeat the decreases in this manner every 4th round 10 more times. 56 sts on the needles, 14 on each needle. If you started with 88 sts, work the decreases every 4th row 16 times.
Continue working as established until the leg measures approx. 38 cm and you've just completed row 11 of chart I. Continue working needles II and III in the cable pattern and begin the increases for the heel between needles IV and I (see chart III). Continue working in the round.
1st increase round: You have worked through the end of needle IV. Using your left-hand needle, pick up the left leg of the stitch that is below the stitch you've just worked and knit it through the back loop. Next, pick up the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on needle I onto your left-hand needle and knit it through the back loop. The increased sts will form the gusset between needles I and IV. The gusset has 2 sts. Work 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. The beginning of the round is now on the right end of the gusset, so you will end the round on needle IV before the 1 knit st on the gusset.
2nd increase round: There is 1 knit stitch unworked on needle IV. Increase 1 st as before (below the purl st), knit the 2 gusset sts, increase 1 st as before (below the purl st). 4 gusset sts. Knit 1 round without increases and knit the gusset sts. End this round before the gusset.
Repeat the increases every 2nd round for 6 more times. As established, always work the increases on both sides of the middle gusset sts. On every other round knit the gusset sts. Completed, the gusset has 16 sts.
After the last increase round, work 1 complete round and then work through the next round until the end of needle III. Make a note on which round the cable pattern on the top of the sock will continue after the heel.
Begin the heel decreases. The decreases are worked flat and only on needles IV and I.
1st row: work through needle IV, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. On the beginning of needle I, k2, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
2nd row: slip 1 st, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
3rd row: slip 1, k6, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.
4th row: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Continue working in the same way, knitting or purling the sts on either side of the 'opening' together and then working 1 more st before turning the work. Work the decreases on both ends until 1 unworked st remains. The last decrease was made on the wrong side of the work. Turn work and resume knitting in the round with all the sts.
Work the first round as follows: slip 1, knit the sts on needle IV. On needle I, k11, k2tog through the back loop. Continue working the cable pattern on needles II and III. On needle IV, k2tog, k11. The beginning of the round is again between needles IV and I. Needles I and IV now have 12 sts each and needles II and III 14 sts each = 52 sts.
Continue working the cable pattern on the top of the sock and work needles I and IV in stockinette stitch until the foot measures approx. 19 cm and you've just completed row 15 of chart II. Work the following two cable turns following rows 1-3 of chart IV. The cable on the middle is now completed, while the smaller cables on the sides will still continue. If you need the foot to be longer, you can continue knitting and begin the toe decreases later on. Make sure that the turns on the smaller cables on the sides will continue to follow the proper pattern.
Distribute the sts evenly, so that each needle has 13 sts. On needles II and III work the toe decreases according to chart IV, i.e. work rows 4-20.
Work the toe decreases on needles I and IV: Work through needle I until 3 sts remain: k2tog, p1. On needle IV, p1, skp, work to the end of the needle. On the next round purl the purl sts. Continue working the decreases every 2nd round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Switch to working the decreases on each round. When 8 sts remain in total, break the yarn, pass it through the sts, pull tightly and weave the end securely.
Knit the other sock to match.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
