Fox-socks Novita Venla
These whimsical fox socks are knitted using the thin Novita Venla yarn.
Designer
Susanna Mertsalmi
Size(s)
26(30)38 EUR
Finished dimensions
Children's shoe sizes 8.5 (12) and women's shoe size 5
Yarn demand
Novita Venla Grey sock: MC1 Stone 100(100)150 g CC1 Off White small amount CC2 Black small amount Black sock: MC2 Black 100(100)150 g CC1 Off White small amount CC3 Berry small amount
Needles and other supplies
Needles Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 2.5-3.0 mm Or the size to give you the correct tension.
Finished dimensions
Children's shoe sizes 8.5 (12) and women's shoe size 5
Stitch patterns
Stocking stitch in the round: All rounds: K to end.
Colourwork in the round: Follow the chart and written instructions working in patterned stocking stitch.
Intarsia (fox): Wind a tiny ball of yarn for each isolated colour area. When changing colours on a row twist the yarns together to avoid holes.
Gauge
29 sts in stocking stitch = 10 cm / 4 in
Note
The charts are in Finnish and Swedish.
Repeat the 15 sts pattern and rounds 1–35.
White = knit in grey or black
Black = knit in white
Fox face
Work flat using intarsia technique. The colours for yellow and black sock alternatives are indicated in the following way: yellow sock(black sock). Wind 2 tiny balls of CC1 for both colour alternatives and 1 tiny ball of CC2 for yellow alternative and 1 tiny ball of CC3 for black alternative.
Cast on 2 sts with CC1(CC1), 1 st with CC2(CC3) and 2 sts with CC1(CC1) = 5 sts. Turn work.
Row 1 (WS): P2 with CC1(CC1), k1fb with CC2(CC3) and p2 with CC1(CC1) = 6 sts. Turn work.
Row 2: K1fb, k1 with CC1(CC1), k2 with CC2(CC3), k1, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 8 sts. Turn work.
Row 3: P3 with CC1(CC1), k2fb with CC2(CC3), p3 with CC1(CC1) = 10 sts. Turn work.
Row 4: K1fb, k2 with CC1(CC1), k4 with CC2(CC3), k2, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 12 sts. Turn work.
Row 5: P4 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k2, k1fb with CC2(CC3), p4 with CC1(CC1) = 14 sts. Cut CC2 and CC3 and turn work.
Row 6: K1fb, k3 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k3, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 16 sts. Turn work.
Row 7: P5 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p5 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 8: K1fb, k4 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k4, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 18 sts. Turn work.
Row 9: P6 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p6 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 10: K1fb, k5 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k5, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 20 sts. Turn work.
Row 11: P7 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p7 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 12: K1fb, k6 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k4, k1fb with MC1(MC2), k6, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 24 sts. Turn work.
Row 13: P8 with CC1(CC1), p8 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 14: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k6, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 26 sts. Turn work.
Row 15: P8 with CC1(CC1), p10 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 16: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k8, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 28 sts. Turn work.
Row 17: P8 with CC1(CC1), p12 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 18: K6 with CC1(CC1), k2tog, k1fb, k10, k1fb, skp with MC1(MC2), k6 with CC1(CC1) (on this row, run MC1(MC2) across the back of the fabric) = 28 sts.
Rearrange the sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 14 sts on each (needles II and III). Next, using a long-tail cast-on method with CC1 as the thumb strand and MC1(MC2) as the forefinger strand, cast on 32(36)52 sts at the end on the row just worked. The newly cast-on stitches should be yellow(black). Distribute these sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 16(18)27 sts on each (needles I and IV). You have now 60(64)82 sts on the needles and the beginning of the round will be in the middle of the newly cast-on stitches. Join to work in the round and using MC1(MC2) work 1.5(1.5)2 cm in st st.
Ears
Knit the 16(18)27 sts on needle I and start working the first ear on needle II. Ears are worked using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K9, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): Yo, p8, turn work.
Row 3: Yo, k7, turn work.
Row 4: Yo, p6, turn work.
Row 5: Yo, k5, turn work.
Row 6: Yo, p4, turn work.
Row 7: Yo, k3, turn work.
Row 8: Yo, p2, turn work.
Next, start closing the yarnover gaps:
Row 9: Yo, k2, knit the yarnover and the next unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 10: P3, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 11: K4, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together, turn work.
Row 12: P5, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 13: K6, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 14: P7, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 15: K8, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 16: P9, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Continue in the following way (RS): Needle II: k14; needle III: k4 and then, work another ear by repeating rows 1 - 16. Turn work and k10; needle IV: k16(18)27).
Next round: K26(28)37, p8, k26(28)37.
Turn the work inside out and start working in the opposite direction. This side will now be the RS of the work and the cuff will be folded here. Work 1.5(1.5)2.5 cm in st st in the round.
Next, start following the chart at row 1 and keep repeating the 15 st pattern repeat. Note that the pattern repeat and the total number of stitches may not line up. Keep repeating rows 1 - 35.
Note Wind 2(2)3 tiny balls of CC1(CC1) for vertical stripes. Work each stripe from its own tiny ball carrying MC1(MC2) at the back of the work. When you arrive at the stitch worked with CC1(CC1), simply take the yarn used to work the stitch on the previous round and work the stitch with it.
When the leg measures 15(15)16 cm, work in the following way:
Decrease round 1: K2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Decrease round 2: Work in pattern until 2 sts remain on needle IV: skp.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Work alternating decrease rounds 1 and 2 every 1 cm until you have decreased 6(6)9 sts on needles I and IV. You have now 48(52)64 sts on the needles. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 12(13)16 sts on each.
Women's shoe size 5 only: When the leg measures 36 cm from the fold, decrease 1 st on each needle = 48(52)60 sts.
When the leg measures 25.5(28)39 cm from the fold, start working the heel flap: With MC1(MC2) knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV [= 24(26)30 sts]. Turn work and leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Work in reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p to end. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* for 11(12)14 times more. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 rows until you have worked them for 11(12)14 times [= 22(24)28 rows].
Next row: P to end.
Keep working in reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for heel turn:
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9(10)11 sts, skp. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6(6)8, p2tog. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 8(9)10 sts, skp. Turn work.
Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8(8)10 centre sts until you have only the 8(8)10 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts on each.
Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12(13)15 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the needles and knit them through back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needle II and needle III. Next, pick up 1 st between needles + 12(13)15 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop onto needle IV.
Start working in the round with these 58(66)74 sts and at the same time start decreasing for the gusset:
Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.
Rounds 2 - 4: Work to end.
Repeat rounds 1 - 4 until you have 12(13)16 sts on each needle.
Work straight until the sole measures 12(14.5)20 cm. Then, start decreasing for toe:
Round 1: Needle I: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle IV: k1, skp, k to end.
Round 2: K to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 times more. After that, repeat only row 1 until you have 8(8)8 sts left.
Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Using CC2(MC2) sew eyes on face using duplicate stitches.
Steam block gently.
Finished dimensions
Children's shoe sizes 8.5 (12) and women's shoe size 5
Stitch patterns
Stocking stitch in the round: All rounds: K to end.
Colourwork in the round: Follow the chart and written instructions working in patterned stocking stitch.
Intarsia (fox): Wind a tiny ball of yarn for each isolated colour area. When changing colours on a row twist the yarns together to avoid holes.
Gauge
29 sts in stocking stitch = 10 cm / 4 in
Note
The charts are in Finnish and Swedish.
Repeat the 15 sts pattern and rounds 1–35.
White = knit in grey or black
Black = knit in white
Fox face
Work flat using intarsia technique. The colours for yellow and black sock alternatives are indicated in the following way: yellow sock(black sock). Wind 2 tiny balls of CC1 for both colour alternatives and 1 tiny ball of CC2 for yellow alternative and 1 tiny ball of CC3 for black alternative.
Cast on 2 sts with CC1(CC1), 1 st with CC2(CC3) and 2 sts with CC1(CC1) = 5 sts. Turn work.
Row 1 (WS): P2 with CC1(CC1), k1fb with CC2(CC3) and p2 with CC1(CC1) = 6 sts. Turn work.
Row 2: K1fb, k1 with CC1(CC1), k2 with CC2(CC3), k1, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 8 sts. Turn work.
Row 3: P3 with CC1(CC1), k2fb with CC2(CC3), p3 with CC1(CC1) = 10 sts. Turn work.
Row 4: K1fb, k2 with CC1(CC1), k4 with CC2(CC3), k2, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 12 sts. Turn work.
Row 5: P4 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k2, k1fb with CC2(CC3), p4 with CC1(CC1) = 14 sts. Cut CC2 and CC3 and turn work.
Row 6: K1fb, k3 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k3, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 16 sts. Turn work.
Row 7: P5 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p5 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 8: K1fb, k4 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k4, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 18 sts. Turn work.
Row 9: P6 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p6 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 10: K1fb, k5 with CC1(CC1), k6 with MC1(MC2), k5, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 20 sts. Turn work.
Row 11: P7 with CC1(CC1), p6 with MC1(MC2), p7 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 12: K1fb, k6 with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k4, k1fb with MC1(MC2), k6, kfb with CC1(CC1) = 24 sts. Turn work.
Row 13: P8 with CC1(CC1), p8 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 14: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k6, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 26 sts. Turn work.
Row 15: P8 with CC1(CC1), p10 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 16: K1fb, k5, k2tog with CC1(CC1), k1fb, k8, k1fb with MC1(MC2), skp, k5, k1fb with CC1(CC1) = 28 sts. Turn work.
Row 17: P8 with CC1(CC1), p12 with MC1(MC2), p8 with CC1(CC1). Turn work.
Row 18: K6 with CC1(CC1), k2tog, k1fb, k10, k1fb, skp with MC1(MC2), k6 with CC1(CC1) (on this row, run MC1(MC2) across the back of the fabric) = 28 sts.
Rearrange the sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 14 sts on each (needles II and III). Next, using a long-tail cast-on method with CC1 as the thumb strand and MC1(MC2) as the forefinger strand, cast on 32(36)52 sts at the end on the row just worked. The newly cast-on stitches should be yellow(black). Distribute these sts onto 2 double pointed needles, 16(18)27 sts on each (needles I and IV). You have now 60(64)82 sts on the needles and the beginning of the round will be in the middle of the newly cast-on stitches. Join to work in the round and using MC1(MC2) work 1.5(1.5)2 cm in st st.
Ears
Knit the 16(18)27 sts on needle I and start working the first ear on needle II. Ears are worked using short rows.
Row 1 (RS): K9, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): Yo, p8, turn work.
Row 3: Yo, k7, turn work.
Row 4: Yo, p6, turn work.
Row 5: Yo, k5, turn work.
Row 6: Yo, p4, turn work.
Row 7: Yo, k3, turn work.
Row 8: Yo, p2, turn work.
Next, start closing the yarnover gaps:
Row 9: Yo, k2, knit the yarnover and the next unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 10: P3, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 11: K4, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together, turn work.
Row 12: P5, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 13: K6, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 14: P7, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Row 15: K8, knit the yarnover and the unworked stitch together. Turn work.
Row 16: P9, purl the yo and the next unworked stitch together through back loops. Turn work.
Continue in the following way (RS): Needle II: k14; needle III: k4 and then, work another ear by repeating rows 1 - 16. Turn work and k10; needle IV: k16(18)27).
Next round: K26(28)37, p8, k26(28)37.
Turn the work inside out and start working in the opposite direction. This side will now be the RS of the work and the cuff will be folded here. Work 1.5(1.5)2.5 cm in st st in the round.
Next, start following the chart at row 1 and keep repeating the 15 st pattern repeat. Note that the pattern repeat and the total number of stitches may not line up. Keep repeating rows 1 - 35.
Note Wind 2(2)3 tiny balls of CC1(CC1) for vertical stripes. Work each stripe from its own tiny ball carrying MC1(MC2) at the back of the work. When you arrive at the stitch worked with CC1(CC1), simply take the yarn used to work the stitch on the previous round and work the stitch with it.
When the leg measures 15(15)16 cm, work in the following way:
Decrease round 1: K2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Decrease round 2: Work in pattern until 2 sts remain on needle IV: skp.
Work 1 cm in pattern.
Work alternating decrease rounds 1 and 2 every 1 cm until you have decreased 6(6)9 sts on needles I and IV. You have now 48(52)64 sts on the needles. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 12(13)16 sts on each.
Women's shoe size 5 only: When the leg measures 36 cm from the fold, decrease 1 st on each needle = 48(52)60 sts.
When the leg measures 25.5(28)39 cm from the fold, start working the heel flap: With MC1(MC2) knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV [= 24(26)30 sts]. Turn work and leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Work in reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p to end. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* for 11(12)14 times more. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1 - 2 rows until you have worked them for 11(12)14 times [= 22(24)28 rows].
Next row: P to end.
Keep working in reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for heel turn:
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9(10)11 sts, skp. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6(6)8, p2tog. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 8(9)10 sts, skp. Turn work.
Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8(8)10 centre sts until you have only the 8(8)10 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts on each.
Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12(13)15 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the needles and knit them through back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needle II and needle III. Next, pick up 1 st between needles + 12(13)15 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop onto needle IV.
Start working in the round with these 58(66)74 sts and at the same time start decreasing for the gusset:
Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.
Rounds 2 - 4: Work to end.
Repeat rounds 1 - 4 until you have 12(13)16 sts on each needle.
Work straight until the sole measures 12(14.5)20 cm. Then, start decreasing for toe:
Round 1: Needle I: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle IV: k1, skp, k to end.
Round 2: K to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2 times more. After that, repeat only row 1 until you have 8(8)8 sts left.
Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Using CC2(MC2) sew eyes on face using duplicate stitches.
Steam block gently.
