Milla KAL Classic
Let’s knit the most delightful cardigan of the summer together! Milla, knitted with lightweight and fluffy Novita Hehku yarn, is a cardigan that can be styled in many ways. The pattern includes 4 different versions, a wide size range from XS to 5XL, and numerous color options. You can also easily adapt the pattern to suit your own style: choose whether you want short, mid-length, or long sleeves for your Milla cardigan, and finish it off with optional details like pockets, buttons, or ties.
Designer
Piia Maria Pekkanen
Size(s)
XS(S)M(L)XL(2XL)3XL(4XL)5XL Sample sizes S (without pockets), L and 3XL(with pockets)
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 96(104)112(120)128(136)144(152)160 cm / 37.75(41)44(47.25)50.5(53.5)56.75(59.75)63 in
Length, center back 49(51)53(56)58(60)63(65)67 cm / 19.25(20)20.75(22)22.75(23.5)24.75(25.5)26.5 in
Sleeve inner length 43(43)43(44)44(44)45(45)45 cm / 17(17)17(17.25)17.25(17.25)17.75(17.75)17.75 in
Yarn demand
Novita Hehku without pocket (513) hot 250(250)300(300)350(350)400(400)450 g taskullinen (5581) cool 250(250)300(300)350(350)400(400)450 g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm) Novita 5 mm and double-pointed needles 5 mm (if you’re not using the Magic Loop technique for the sleeves), or according to your gauge. For the ribbing, circular needle (80 cm) Novita 4.5 mm and double-pointed needles 4.5 mm. Other supplies: 4 stitch markers and 4 buttons, 20 mm in diameter.
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 96(104)112(120)128(136)144(152)160 cm / 37.75(41)44(47.25)50.5(53.5)56.75(59.75)63 in
Length, center back 49(51)53(56)58(60)63(65)67 cm / 19.25(20)20.75(22)22.75(23.5)24.75(25.5)26.5 in
Sleeve inner length 43(43)43(44)44(44)45(45)45 cm / 17(17)17(17.25)17.25(17.25)17.75(17.75)17.75 in
Stitch Patterns
Stockinette stitch in the round: Knit all rounds.
Stockinette stitch flat: Knit all stitches on the right side, purl all stitches on the wrong side.
Ribbing in the round: *K1, P1*, repeat *–*.
Ribbing flat: *K1, P1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
Gauge
14 sts and 19 rounds in stockinette stitch after steaming = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches).
Note: Check your gauge, as tension and steaming have a significant impact when knitting with Hehku yarn. Change needle size if necessary.
Techniques
M1R: Make 1 stitch to the right – Lift the strand between stitches from back to front onto the left needle and knit it twisted (through the front loop).
M1L: Make 1 stitch to the left – Lift the strand between stitches from front to back onto the left needle and knit it twisted (through the back loop).
Construction
The cardigan is knitted seamlessly from the neckline band downward. The upper raglan yoke is worked in one piece, after which the sleeves and body are separated. The body is worked flat and the sleeves are worked in the round. Finally, the finishing is done according to the instructions for each variation.
Knitting School Tutorials
PART 1
Raglan yoke
Using the larger circular needle, cast on 4 sts for neck. Beginning with a WS row, work stockinette st flat for 56(56)56(58)58(58)60(60)60 rows. Finish after a RS row Do not turn work.Pick up and knit 55(55)55(57)57(57)59(59)59 sts from the left end of the neckband. Pick up the sts as follows: take the right needle under both loops of the edge st, pick up the yarn and pull it through. Pick up 1 st from each row and then 3 sts at the end of the band.62(62)62(64)64(64)66(66)66 sts now on the needles.
Turn work and purl the WS row.Work stockinette st flat. On the next RS row, place markers as follows:work 6 sts (left front), place marker (PM), work 10 sts (left sleeve), PM, work 30(30)30(32)32(32)34(34)34 sts (back), PM, work 10 sts (right sleeve), PM, work 6 sts (right front).
Purl 1 row. On the next RS row, begin raglan increases: *knit to last st before marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L*, repeat *–* 3 more times, knit to end. 8 sts increased. Purl 1 row, then repeat the increases on the RS row.
Purl 1 row. On the next RS row, begin increases at the front edges: k3, M1L, work to last 3 sts (repeating the raglan increases), M1R, k3. 10 sts increased.
Repeat the raglan increases on every other row 18(20)22(24)26(28)30(32)34 times in total; at the same time repeat the increases at the front edges on every 6th row 6(6)7(8)8(9)10(10)11 times in total. Work the WS row.
After the increases are completed, there are 30(32)35(38)40(43)46(48)51 sts in the fronts, 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sts in the sleeves and 66(70)74(80)84(88)94(98)102 sts in the back 218(234)252(272)288(306)326(342)360 sts now on the needles.
PART 2
On the next RS row, separate the sleeves: work 30(32)35(38)40(43)46(48)51 sts (left front), leave 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sts on hold (left sleeve), cast on 2(4)5(5)6(7)7(8)9 sts for armhole, work 66(70)74(80)84(88)94(98)102 sts (back), leave 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sts on hold (right sleeve), cast on 2(4)5(5)6(7)7(8)9 sts for armhole, work 30(32)35(38)40(43)46(48)51 sts (right front).
Remove all markers.Leave the sleeve sts on hold while you complete the body. 130(142)154(166)176(188)200(210)222 body sts now on the needles.
Body
With the 130(142)154(166)176(188)200(210)222 body sts, work stockinette st flat; at the same time repeat the increases at the front edges 2(2)1(1)1(0)0(0)0 more time(s) on every 6th row. You have now repeated the increases 8(8)8(9)9(9)10(10)11 times in total. 134(146)156(168)178(188)200(210)222 sts on the needles.
Work stockinette st until the body measures 16(16)16(17)17(17)18(18)18 cm / 6.25(6.25)6.25(6.75)6.75(6.75)7(7)7 in from the armhole. Finish after a WS row.Pocket version only: begin the pocket openings. Work 10(11)12(14)15(17)19(20)21 sts.Using scrap yarn, work 15 sts, then slip these 15 sts back to the left-hand needle and work them again using the working yarn. Work until 25(26)27(29)30(32)34(35)36 sts remain, work 15 sts using scrap yarn, slip these 15 sts back to the left-hand needle and work them again using the working yarn. Knit the remaining 10(11)12(14)15(17)19(20)21 sts.If you are knitting the version without pockets, omit the openings and simply knit the row.
Work stockinette st flat until the body measures 26(26)26(27)27(27)28(28)28 cm / 10.25(10.25)10.25(10.75)10.75(10.75)11(11)11 in from the armhole. Finish with a WS row.
PART 3
Switch to the smaller needles. Work ribbing flat for 4 cm / 1.5 in.Bind off in ribbing.If you are knitting version without pockets, skip the pocket section and proceed to next part.
Pockets
Unravel the scrap yarn from the pocket opening and place the sts on two 5 mm double-pointed needles, 14 sts from the top edge on one needle and 15 sts from the bottom edge on the other.In addition, pick up 1 st from both ends of the opening and place them on the top needle.16 sts on the top needle. Leave the bottom sts on hold. With the 16 top sts, knit the pocket: work stockinette st flat for 8 cm / 3.25 in.Bind off in knit. Push the pocket through the opening to the WS.Now knit an edging for the pocket opening using the sts of the bottom edge: with the smaller double-pointed needles, work the 15 sts, then cast on 1 st for seaming. Using the yarn end, cast on 1 st for seaming at the beginning of the needle = 17 sts.Work ribbing for 3 cm / 1.25 in, then bind off in pattern. Sew the ends of the pocket opening to the front using mattress stitch, with the edge st under the edging. Sew the edges of the pocket to the purl bumps on the WS so that you can’t see the stitching on the RS. Knit the other pocket in the same manner.
PART 4
Sleeves
Divide the sleeve sts onto four double-pointed needles or use a long circular needle and the Magic Loop technique. Starting at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on, pick up and knit 1(2)2(2)3(3)3(4)4 st(s), work the 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2(2)3(3)3(4)4(4)4 sts from the armhole. Place marker for beginning of round. 49(54)59(63)68(73)77(82)86 sts on the needles.
Work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm / 0.75 in and then begin decreases: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 3.5(3)3(3)2.5(2.5)2.5(2.5)2.5(2)2 cm / 1.5(1.25)1.25(1.25)1(1)1(1)1(0.75)0.75 in 6(8)9(11)12(13)14(15)16 more times = 35(36)39(39)42(45)47(50)52 sts.
Work stockinette st until the sleeve measures 37(37)37(38)38(38)39(39)39 cm / 14.5(14.5)14.5(15)15(15)15.25(15.25)15.25 in from the underarm. Try on the cardigan and keep knitting if needed until the sleeve measures 6 cm / 2.25 in from desired length. Knit 1 round, evenly decreasing 1(2)3(3)4(5)5(6)6 st(s) = 34(34)36(36)38(40)42(44)46 sts.
Switch to the smaller needles. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm / 2.25 in. Bind off in ribbing.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
PART 5
Buttonband
If needed, go down a needle size for the buttonband. Place markers for 4 buttonholes at the right front edge, with the lowest button 3 cm / 1.25 in from the edge, the top button at the last neckline increase and the rest evenly in between.
Measure a length of yarn approximately 3 times the length of the front edges and back neck. With the ball of yarn at the right end of the circular needle and the long yarn end at the left end, pick up and knit sts from the RS of the front edges and back neckline. Pick up approx. 3 sts per 4 rows. Begin at the bottom edge of the right front. Start by picking up sts for the first approx. 15 cm / 6 in, then keep picking up a few sts at a time as you go. Note:If the border begins to curl or is getting too long, pick up fewer sts, e.g. 2 sts per 3 rows.
With WS facing, cast on 10 sts to the other end of the needle using the yarn from the ball. Turn to RS. With the new sts, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* 3 more times, p1, k2tog through the back loop (last st + the first st picked-up from the front edge). Turn work. With the 10 buttonband sts, work double stockinette flat and bind off the picked-up sts. Begin with the WS row.
Row 1 (WS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1*, repeat *–* 3 more times, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k2tog through back loop (last buttonband st + next picked-up st). 1 st decreased at the front edge. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you reach the first buttonhole marker.
Buttonhole: Keep working double stockinette as before and make the first buttonhole by turning work in the middle of the row.Row 1 (RS): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, *k1, slip the purl st purlwise with yarn in front*, repeat *–* once more, turn work. Row 2 (WS): *k1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front*, repeat *–* once more, k1. Turn work. Repeat rows 1–2 once more. Work row 1 once more, then break yarn. Leave the sts on hold and work the other side of the buttonhole: Row 1 (RS): *k1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front*, repeat once more, k2tog through back loop. Turn work. Row 2 (WS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1*, repeat *–* once more, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, turn work. Repeat rows 1–2 once and then row 1 once more. Turn work.
Keep working double stockinette with all 10 sts as before the buttonhole. Keep working until you reach the next buttonhole marker. Make another buttonhole, then keep working double stockinette until you have bound off all picked-up sts, making 2 more buttonholes at the marked spots. Bind off the buttonband sts using the Italian bind-off or as desired.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly. Sew on the buttons.
Milla KAL Classic
Size(s)
XS(S)M(L)XL(2XL)3XL(4XL)5XL Sample sizes S (without pockets), L and 3XL(with pockets)
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 96(104)112(120)128(136)144(152)160 cm / 37.75(41)44(47.25)50.5(53.5)56.75(59.75)63 in
Length, center back 49(51)53(56)58(60)63(65)67 cm / 19.25(20)20.75(22)22.75(23.5)24.75(25.5)26.5 in
Sleeve inner length 43(43)43(44)44(44)45(45)45 cm / 17(17)17(17.25)17.25(17.25)17.75(17.75)17.75 in
Yarn demand
Novita Hehku without pocket (513) hot 250(250)300(300)350(350)400(400)450 g taskullinen (5581) cool 250(250)300(300)350(350)400(400)450 g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm) Novita 5 mm and double-pointed needles 5 mm (if you’re not using the Magic Loop technique for the sleeves), or according to your gauge. For the ribbing, circular needle (80 cm) Novita 4.5 mm and double-pointed needles 4.5 mm. Other supplies: 4 stitch markers and 4 buttons, 20 mm in diameter.
Stitch Patterns
Stockinette stitch in the round: Knit all rounds.
Stockinette stitch flat: Knit all stitches on the right side, purl all stitches on the wrong side.
Ribbing in the round: *K1, P1*, repeat *–*.
Ribbing flat: *K1, P1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
Gauge
14 sts and 19 rounds in stockinette stitch after steaming = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches).
Note: Check your gauge, as tension and steaming have a significant impact when knitting with Hehku yarn. Change needle size if necessary.
Techniques
M1R: Make 1 stitch to the right – Lift the strand between stitches from back to front onto the left needle and knit it twisted (through the front loop).
M1L: Make 1 stitch to the left – Lift the strand between stitches from front to back onto the left needle and knit it twisted (through the back loop).
Construction
The cardigan is knitted seamlessly from the neckline band downward. The upper raglan yoke is worked in one piece, after which the sleeves and body are separated. The body is worked flat and the sleeves are worked in the round. Finally, the finishing is done according to the instructions for each variation.
Knitting School Tutorials
PART 1
Raglan yoke
Using the larger circular needle, cast on 4 sts for neck. Beginning with a WS row, work stockinette st flat for 56(56)56(58)58(58)60(60)60 rows. Finish after a RS row Do not turn work.Pick up and knit 55(55)55(57)57(57)59(59)59 sts from the left end of the neckband. Pick up the sts as follows: take the right needle under both loops of the edge st, pick up the yarn and pull it through. Pick up 1 st from each row and then 3 sts at the end of the band.62(62)62(64)64(64)66(66)66 sts now on the needles.
Turn work and purl the WS row.Work stockinette st flat. On the next RS row, place markers as follows:work 6 sts (left front), place marker (PM), work 10 sts (left sleeve), PM, work 30(30)30(32)32(32)34(34)34 sts (back), PM, work 10 sts (right sleeve), PM, work 6 sts (right front).
Purl 1 row. On the next RS row, begin raglan increases: *knit to last st before marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L*, repeat *–* 3 more times, knit to end. 8 sts increased. Purl 1 row, then repeat the increases on the RS row.
Purl 1 row. On the next RS row, begin increases at the front edges: k3, M1L, work to last 3 sts (repeating the raglan increases), M1R, k3. 10 sts increased.
Repeat the raglan increases on every other row 18(20)22(24)26(28)30(32)34 times in total; at the same time repeat the increases at the front edges on every 6th row 6(6)7(8)8(9)10(10)11 times in total. Work the WS row.
After the increases are completed, there are 30(32)35(38)40(43)46(48)51 sts in the fronts, 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sts in the sleeves and 66(70)74(80)84(88)94(98)102 sts in the back 218(234)252(272)288(306)326(342)360 sts now on the needles.
PART 2
On the next RS row, separate the sleeves: work 30(32)35(38)40(43)46(48)51 sts (left front), leave 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sts on hold (left sleeve), cast on 2(4)5(5)6(7)7(8)9 sts for armhole, work 66(70)74(80)84(88)94(98)102 sts (back), leave 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sts on hold (right sleeve), cast on 2(4)5(5)6(7)7(8)9 sts for armhole, work 30(32)35(38)40(43)46(48)51 sts (right front).
Remove all markers.Leave the sleeve sts on hold while you complete the body. 130(142)154(166)176(188)200(210)222 body sts now on the needles.
Body
With the 130(142)154(166)176(188)200(210)222 body sts, work stockinette st flat; at the same time repeat the increases at the front edges 2(2)1(1)1(0)0(0)0 more time(s) on every 6th row. You have now repeated the increases 8(8)8(9)9(9)10(10)11 times in total. 134(146)156(168)178(188)200(210)222 sts on the needles.
Work stockinette st until the body measures 16(16)16(17)17(17)18(18)18 cm / 6.25(6.25)6.25(6.75)6.75(6.75)7(7)7 in from the armhole. Finish after a WS row.Pocket version only: begin the pocket openings. Work 10(11)12(14)15(17)19(20)21 sts.Using scrap yarn, work 15 sts, then slip these 15 sts back to the left-hand needle and work them again using the working yarn. Work until 25(26)27(29)30(32)34(35)36 sts remain, work 15 sts using scrap yarn, slip these 15 sts back to the left-hand needle and work them again using the working yarn. Knit the remaining 10(11)12(14)15(17)19(20)21 sts.If you are knitting the version without pockets, omit the openings and simply knit the row.
Work stockinette st flat until the body measures 26(26)26(27)27(27)28(28)28 cm / 10.25(10.25)10.25(10.75)10.75(10.75)11(11)11 in from the armhole. Finish with a WS row.
PART 3
Switch to the smaller needles. Work ribbing flat for 4 cm / 1.5 in.Bind off in ribbing.If you are knitting version without pockets, skip the pocket section and proceed to next part.
Pockets
Unravel the scrap yarn from the pocket opening and place the sts on two 5 mm double-pointed needles, 14 sts from the top edge on one needle and 15 sts from the bottom edge on the other.In addition, pick up 1 st from both ends of the opening and place them on the top needle.16 sts on the top needle. Leave the bottom sts on hold. With the 16 top sts, knit the pocket: work stockinette st flat for 8 cm / 3.25 in.Bind off in knit. Push the pocket through the opening to the WS.Now knit an edging for the pocket opening using the sts of the bottom edge: with the smaller double-pointed needles, work the 15 sts, then cast on 1 st for seaming. Using the yarn end, cast on 1 st for seaming at the beginning of the needle = 17 sts.Work ribbing for 3 cm / 1.25 in, then bind off in pattern. Sew the ends of the pocket opening to the front using mattress stitch, with the edge st under the edging. Sew the edges of the pocket to the purl bumps on the WS so that you can’t see the stitching on the RS. Knit the other pocket in the same manner.
PART 4
Sleeves
Divide the sleeve sts onto four double-pointed needles or use a long circular needle and the Magic Loop technique. Starting at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on, pick up and knit 1(2)2(2)3(3)3(4)4 st(s), work the 46(50)54(58)62(66)70(74)78 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2(2)3(3)3(4)4(4)4 sts from the armhole. Place marker for beginning of round. 49(54)59(63)68(73)77(82)86 sts on the needles.
Work stockinette st in the round for 2 cm / 0.75 in and then begin decreases: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 3.5(3)3(3)2.5(2.5)2.5(2.5)2.5(2)2 cm / 1.5(1.25)1.25(1.25)1(1)1(1)1(0.75)0.75 in 6(8)9(11)12(13)14(15)16 more times = 35(36)39(39)42(45)47(50)52 sts.
Work stockinette st until the sleeve measures 37(37)37(38)38(38)39(39)39 cm / 14.5(14.5)14.5(15)15(15)15.25(15.25)15.25 in from the underarm. Try on the cardigan and keep knitting if needed until the sleeve measures 6 cm / 2.25 in from desired length. Knit 1 round, evenly decreasing 1(2)3(3)4(5)5(6)6 st(s) = 34(34)36(36)38(40)42(44)46 sts.
Switch to the smaller needles. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm / 2.25 in. Bind off in ribbing.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
PART 5
Buttonband
If needed, go down a needle size for the buttonband. Place markers for 4 buttonholes at the right front edge, with the lowest button 3 cm / 1.25 in from the edge, the top button at the last neckline increase and the rest evenly in between.
Measure a length of yarn approximately 3 times the length of the front edges and back neck. With the ball of yarn at the right end of the circular needle and the long yarn end at the left end, pick up and knit sts from the RS of the front edges and back neckline. Pick up approx. 3 sts per 4 rows. Begin at the bottom edge of the right front. Start by picking up sts for the first approx. 15 cm / 6 in, then keep picking up a few sts at a time as you go. Note:If the border begins to curl or is getting too long, pick up fewer sts, e.g. 2 sts per 3 rows.
With WS facing, cast on 10 sts to the other end of the needle using the yarn from the ball. Turn to RS. With the new sts, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* 3 more times, p1, k2tog through the back loop (last st + the first st picked-up from the front edge). Turn work. With the 10 buttonband sts, work double stockinette flat and bind off the picked-up sts. Begin with the WS row.
Row 1 (WS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1*, repeat *–* 3 more times, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k2tog through back loop (last buttonband st + next picked-up st). 1 st decreased at the front edge. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 1–2 until you reach the first buttonhole marker.
Buttonhole: Keep working double stockinette as before and make the first buttonhole by turning work in the middle of the row.Row 1 (RS): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, *k1, slip the purl st purlwise with yarn in front*, repeat *–* once more, turn work. Row 2 (WS): *k1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front*, repeat *–* once more, k1. Turn work. Repeat rows 1–2 once more. Work row 1 once more, then break yarn. Leave the sts on hold and work the other side of the buttonhole: Row 1 (RS): *k1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front*, repeat once more, k2tog through back loop. Turn work. Row 2 (WS): *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1*, repeat *–* once more, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, turn work. Repeat rows 1–2 once and then row 1 once more. Turn work.
Keep working double stockinette with all 10 sts as before the buttonhole. Keep working until you reach the next buttonhole marker. Make another buttonhole, then keep working double stockinette until you have bound off all picked-up sts, making 2 more buttonholes at the marked spots. Bind off the buttonband sts using the Italian bind-off or as desired.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly. Sew on the buttons.
