Novita Isoveli: Tundra cardigan
The loose and relaxed Tundra cardigan goes with all kinds of outfits. Knitted from Novita Isoveli, this long cardigan will be your best friend on cold winter days and cool summer nights alike.
Designer
Sari Nordlund
Size(s)
S(M)L(XL)XXL
Finished dimensions
body circumference 110(118)126(134)142 cm / 43¼(46½)49½(52¾)56 in
length 79(81)83(85)87 cm / 31(32)32¾(33½)34¼ in
inner sleeve length 53(54)54(55)55 cm / 20¾(21¼)21¼(21¾)21¾ in
Yarn demand
Novita Isoveli (061) Linen 1100(1150)1200(1250)1300 g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed; a second 5 mm circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) for the border; 5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves
Finished dimensions
body circumference 110(118)126(134)142 cm / 43¼(46½)49½(52¾)56 in
length 79(81)83(85)87 cm / 31(32)32¾(33½)34¼ in
inner sleeve length 53(54)54(55)55 cm / 20¾(21¼)21¼(21¾)21¾ in
Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Garter stitch (flat): knit all rows.Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*
Gauge: 16 sts in garter stitch = 10 cm
Back
Cast on 99(105)111(117)125 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work rib-bing for 8 cm.
Work garter st and on the first row decrease 1 st by k2tog = 98(104)110(116)124 sts.
When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 10 cm 3 more times = 90(96)102(108)116 sts.
When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 74(80)86(92)100 sts.
When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, bind off 2x5(5)5(6)7 sts at both ends for the shoulders.
On the next row bind off the first 4(5)6(6)7 sts, work garter st until there are 9(11)13(13)14 sts on the right-hand needle, bind off the next (ie. middle) 28(28)28(30)30 sts for the neckline, work to end of row. Work one side at a time:
Row 1: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2: bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.
Row 3: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.
Row 4: knit to end of row.
Row 5: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.
Break yarn and work the other side:
Row 1: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.
Row 2: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.
Row 3: knit to end of row.
Row 4: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.
Left front
Cast on 45(47)51(53)57 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work ribbing for 8 cm. Work garter st.
When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 10 cm 3 more times = 41(43)47(49)53 sts.
When the piece measures 51(52)53(55)56 cm, begin neckline decreases at the left end (front edge): (RS) work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease every 3 cm 10(9)10(10)10 more times.
Note: When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at the right end for the armhole.
When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 2x5 sts and 3x4 sts (5x5 sts) 2x5 sts and 3x6 sts (5x6 sts) 4x7 sts and 1x6 sts at the shoulder.
Right front
Mirror the left front. Work the neckline decreases by skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over).
Sleeves
Using the double-pointed needles, cast on 44(46)46(48)50 and work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Work ribbing for 8 cm, then work garter st in the round.
When the piece measures 14(12)12(13)13 cm and you have last worked a purl round, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, kfb (= knit the next st first through the front loop and then through the back loop), work to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(3) cm 10(11)13(12)12 more times = 66(70)74(74)76 sts.
When the piece measures approx. 53(54)54(55)55 cm and you have last worked a purl round, switch to working flat and on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
The border is worked one side at a time. First pick up and knit sts from the left side of the cardigan. With RS facing, start at the back midpoint and pick up and knit sts from the back neckline, left front neckline and left front edge. Pick up approx. 20 sts per 10 cm (make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st). Begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
After 3 rows (finish with the WS row), divide the back and front neckline sts (the slanted front section) into six groups that are about the same size. Place markers at the edges of the groups.
RS: work from the back midpoint to the 6th marker (bottom edge of neckline slanting), turn work, slip first st, work to end. Next row: work to 5th marker, turn work, slip first st, work to end. Turn work a total of 6 times at each of the markers.
After you have completed the short rows, continue with all sts. When the border measures 8 cm at the hem, loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the right border in the same manner.
Sew the middle back seam. Attach the sleeves following the red marks on the pattern.
With RS facing, sew the side seams stitch by stitch using overcast seaming (= align the edges with no space in between, making sure the pieces are level).
Finished dimensions
body circumference 110(118)126(134)142 cm / 43¼(46½)49½(52¾)56 in
length 79(81)83(85)87 cm / 31(32)32¾(33½)34¼ in
inner sleeve length 53(54)54(55)55 cm / 20¾(21¼)21¼(21¾)21¾ in
Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Garter stitch (flat): knit all rows.Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*
Gauge: 16 sts in garter stitch = 10 cm
Back
Cast on 99(105)111(117)125 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work rib-bing for 8 cm.
Work garter st and on the first row decrease 1 st by k2tog = 98(104)110(116)124 sts.
When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 10 cm 3 more times = 90(96)102(108)116 sts.
When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 74(80)86(92)100 sts.
When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, bind off 2x5(5)5(6)7 sts at both ends for the shoulders.
On the next row bind off the first 4(5)6(6)7 sts, work garter st until there are 9(11)13(13)14 sts on the right-hand needle, bind off the next (ie. middle) 28(28)28(30)30 sts for the neckline, work to end of row. Work one side at a time:
Row 1: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2: bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.
Row 3: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.
Row 4: knit to end of row.
Row 5: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.
Break yarn and work the other side:
Row 1: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit to end of row.
Row 2: bind off 4(5)6(6)7 sts, knit to end of row.
Row 3: knit to end of row.
Row 4: bind off the remaining 4(5)6(6)6 sts.
Left front
Cast on 45(47)51(53)57 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work ribbing for 8 cm. Work garter st.
When the piece measures 23(24)24(25)25 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 10 cm 3 more times = 41(43)47(49)53 sts.
When the piece measures 51(52)53(55)56 cm, begin neckline decreases at the left end (front edge): (RS) work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease every 3 cm 10(9)10(10)10 more times.
Note: When the piece measures 55(56)57(59)60 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at the right end for the armhole.
When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, on every other row bind off 2x5 sts and 3x4 sts (5x5 sts) 2x5 sts and 3x6 sts (5x6 sts) 4x7 sts and 1x6 sts at the shoulder.
Right front
Mirror the left front. Work the neckline decreases by skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over).
Sleeves
Using the double-pointed needles, cast on 44(46)46(48)50 and work ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Work ribbing for 8 cm, then work garter st in the round.
When the piece measures 14(12)12(13)13 cm and you have last worked a purl round, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, kfb (= knit the next st first through the front loop and then through the back loop), work to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(3) cm 10(11)13(12)12 more times = 66(70)74(74)76 sts.
When the piece measures approx. 53(54)54(55)55 cm and you have last worked a purl round, switch to working flat and on every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 4x1 st at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
The border is worked one side at a time. First pick up and knit sts from the left side of the cardigan. With RS facing, start at the back midpoint and pick up and knit sts from the back neckline, left front neckline and left front edge. Pick up approx. 20 sts per 10 cm (make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st). Begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
After 3 rows (finish with the WS row), divide the back and front neckline sts (the slanted front section) into six groups that are about the same size. Place markers at the edges of the groups.
RS: work from the back midpoint to the 6th marker (bottom edge of neckline slanting), turn work, slip first st, work to end. Next row: work to 5th marker, turn work, slip first st, work to end. Turn work a total of 6 times at each of the markers.
After you have completed the short rows, continue with all sts. When the border measures 8 cm at the hem, loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the right border in the same manner.
Sew the middle back seam. Attach the sleeves following the red marks on the pattern.
With RS facing, sew the side seams stitch by stitch using overcast seaming (= align the edges with no space in between, making sure the pieces are level).
